milan
milan

Fendi, Antonio Marras and Etro kick off day one of Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023 began on Wednesday and, as expected of the Italian city, things were both stylish and provocative.

At Fendi, creative director Kim Jones continued with the clothes-as-armour theme, as well as the underwear-as-outerwear idea he set in motion at his recent haute couture show. For this autumn/winter ready-to-wear collection, Jones offered contrasting options for the modern woman. There was sharp suiting with complex, layered looks that were strong and powerful, while other designs were soft, almost flimsy, in lace and silk.

Fendi women's autumn/winter 2023 <a href=collection presented in Milan. AP ” src=”https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/MzaFF3w2U4lra7bEjld8XPE4ceU=/1440×0/filters:format(jpg):quality(70)/cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/thenational/BFBQDJEVNMYBS2RT3WLVLTXOTU.jpg” width=”1440″ height=”0″ loading=”lazy”/

Antonio Marras wove a wintry gothic tale, with knitted cable jumpers featuring lace and dense flowers creeping across the garments. There was even a tailored tartan suit, a nod to Vivienne Westwood, who died last year.

At Weekend Max Mara, British stylist Kate Phelan brought some androgynous London cool to Milan, via her capsule collection for the brand, which was simply called 24. Inspired by a December 1982 Vogue fashion shoot by Bruce Weber and Grace Coddington that Phelan saw as a teenager, she explains that as soon as she was invited to collaborate on a collection, she knew this shoot would be the foundation of it. “I have been obsessed with these images ever since and, in a way, they made me fall in love with fashion,” she explained.

Translated into high-waisted, pleat-fronted trousers, oversized Harris Tweed blazers and herringbone coats that all leaned into Max Mara know-how, the collection also included pleated black denim skirts and Dr Martens for a dash of early 1980s street style.

Over at Marina Rinaldi, Mary Katrantzou presented a collaboration collection centred on a swirled psychedelic pattern akin to the marbled paper found in old books. Offered in

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Matty Bovan Is Taking His Avant-garde Maximalism to Milan Fashion Week

LONDON — Matty Bovan is joining the Milan Fashion Week schedule.

The Yorkshire-based designer will be showing his spring 2023 collection on the official calendar with support from Dolce & Gabbana, which is supplying Bovan with fabrics and materials.

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Bovan graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2015 with an MA in fashion knitwear. Their graduate collection opened the final show at the fashion university that earned Bovan the L’Oréal Professionel Creative Award, followed by the prestigious LVMH Graduate Prize, which includes 10,000 euros and a junior designer placement at Louis Vuitton under Nicolas Ghesquière.

“Craft and handiwork are at the heart of my work, something that myself and this iconic maison have great affinity with; the synergy upon meeting Domenico and Stefano recently was palpable,” Bovan said in a statement, adding that they’re “still processing the idea that I am going to be exploring their archives and mixing their historic work with my new output for next spring. I’m already feeling the turbo charge of this alliance.”

Bovan’s avant-garde maximalist approach to design has secured them deals with the likes of Coach, working on a range of accessories projects since 2016; collaborating with Miu Miu on a series of dressed up mannequins, and a series of limited edition Barbie dolls dressed in their garments.

Fall 2022 was Bovan’s biggest collection to date, titled Cyclone, which they described as “chaos and destruction — even beauty — in the wake of its power.” Model Irina Shayk opened Bovan’s show in a repurposed Roksanda Ilincic voluminous gown.

Since their fashion week debut with creative hub Fashion East in 2017, Bovan has gone on to staging solo shows during London Fashion Week that have led to their designs being bought by Matchesfashion and Milan’s No30.

Bovan’s nonconformist aesthetic will bring

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