aw23 collection
aw23 collection

Ukrainian designers turn crisis into creativity at London Fashion Week

 (Imaxtree)

(Imaxtree)

February 2022, a catastrophic moment in history struck the world– Russia invaded Ukraine. In a country, pockmarked with grief, the unimaginable suddenly became part of the everyday for many of its people.

Despite daily bombings, rockets flying overhead and cities decimated to ruins, slowly but surely life must go on. And rather than fixating on the tragedy, some of the country’s design talents are turning inward, and funnelling their fears into creativity. They are emboldened; using their craft as a means to amplify the voices of their homeland and their people.

There’s Ivan Frolov, Julia Paskal and Ksenia Schnaider —  who were invited by the British Fashion Council yesterday to present their AW23 collections at London Fashion Week– and have found a sense of comfort and community through fashion.

“It is a great pleasure to show collections with our UK friends. We have this opportunity to show in a fashion capital which means we can continue doing what we actually do the best— create,” says Ksenia Schnaider, founder of Kyiv-based brand Kseniaschaider. Ongoing international encouragement and backing from the “Support Ukrainian Fashion” initiative gives her and many others hope for the future of her home country. “I want to do something beautiful. I think it is my responsibility to give something new to the world. So that we can overcome this darkness.”

Thus, colour is the object of Schnaider’s AW23 collection. Emotionally connected pieces drawn from a palette of blue and yellow-the colours of the Ukrainian flag. “Somehow it’s a very normal desire of a human to overcome something bad, you want to create something beautiful, bright, positive,” she says. “Last year was the year of surviving, it feels like a miracle to show our work on the runway.”

 (Imaxtree)

(Imaxtree)

Produced entirely under air raid sirens

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Molly Goddard Is Bringing The Fun Back To Fashion

The designer’s AW23 collection is a joyful homage to childhood fashion favorites

The designer’s AW23 collection is a joyful homage to childhood fashion favorites

Shown in her studio, Molly Goddard’s AW23 collection is all about reshifting her focus in fashion. The space is clean, stripped down – the optimal setting for a collection focused on the joy of dressing. Models exit from the atelier space and walk the runway of the showroom in eye-catching, playful designs, conjuring memories of playing dress up in your mom’s closet or flipping through pages of fashion magazines as a teen. Somehow, she is able to recapture those joyful moments.

While wearability is at the forefront of the collection, Goddard’s pieces remain exciting and lively, inspired by her own ideas of how she’d choose to style pieces coveted in fashion magazines. Teaming up with her stylist Alice Goddard, the two reminisced on their favorite closet staples in their childhood and teen years for inspiration (printed jeans, sporty knitwear, and Claire’s accessories being the most memorable) to create this collection full of not-so-subtle references to a time when fashion was – more than anything else – fun.

 

The result is flowing tulle skirts and dresses paired with fitted sweaters, animal prints, graphics, patterned outerwear and blue leopard denim. Bright pink mixed with geomoatric patterns mixed with studs mixed with button downs. And these are just a few of the highlights. Think the coolest school uniform you’d actually have wanted to wear – but now exists.

“We looked through the MG archive – pulling out pieces that had worked, and pieces that hadn’t – restyling, reshaping, changing the fabric, refining,” shared Molly on the creation process. “The result is a collection that feels nostalgic, familiar, grown up, wearable, streamlined.”

But for Goddard, even beyond playing with the

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