autumn winter
autumn winter

Fendi, Antonio Marras and Etro kick off day one of Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023 began on Wednesday and, as expected of the Italian city, things were both stylish and provocative.

At Fendi, creative director Kim Jones continued with the clothes-as-armour theme, as well as the underwear-as-outerwear idea he set in motion at his recent haute couture show. For this autumn/winter ready-to-wear collection, Jones offered contrasting options for the modern woman. There was sharp suiting with complex, layered looks that were strong and powerful, while other designs were soft, almost flimsy, in lace and silk.

Fendi women's autumn/winter 2023 <a href=collection presented in Milan. AP ” src=”https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/MzaFF3w2U4lra7bEjld8XPE4ceU=/1440×0/filters:format(jpg):quality(70)/cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/thenational/BFBQDJEVNMYBS2RT3WLVLTXOTU.jpg” width=”1440″ height=”0″ loading=”lazy”/

Antonio Marras wove a wintry gothic tale, with knitted cable jumpers featuring lace and dense flowers creeping across the garments. There was even a tailored tartan suit, a nod to Vivienne Westwood, who died last year.

At Weekend Max Mara, British stylist Kate Phelan brought some androgynous London cool to Milan, via her capsule collection for the brand, which was simply called 24. Inspired by a December 1982 Vogue fashion shoot by Bruce Weber and Grace Coddington that Phelan saw as a teenager, she explains that as soon as she was invited to collaborate on a collection, she knew this shoot would be the foundation of it. “I have been obsessed with these images ever since and, in a way, they made me fall in love with fashion,” she explained.

Translated into high-waisted, pleat-fronted trousers, oversized Harris Tweed blazers and herringbone coats that all leaned into Max Mara know-how, the collection also included pleated black denim skirts and Dr Martens for a dash of early 1980s street style.

Over at Marina Rinaldi, Mary Katrantzou presented a collaboration collection centred on a swirled psychedelic pattern akin to the marbled paper found in old books. Offered in

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Ukrainian designers send out defiant message from London Fashion Week

Ukrainian designers sent out a defiant message at London Fashion Week Tuesday with clothes made from the neck ties their menfolk no longer wear and butterfly motifs to symbolise the “fragility of life”.
The three collections by fashion labels Kseniaschnaider, Paskal and Frolov were put together in Ukraine despite constant interruptions from missile attacks and air raid sirens.

“I think it’s really important not to stop,” said Ksenia Schnaider, one half of the husband and wife team behind the Kseniaschnaider label.
The designer has been travelling back and forth from Ukraine and her new base in the UK, where her daughter is at school, since taking the decision to carry on with fashion despite the war.

Schnaider feared she might “never be able to create again” after being forced to leave Kyiv last March.

But after travelling to Hungary, then Germany and finally Britain, she decided she had to continue for the sake of herself and her team.

“You can’t stop even if reality is terrible, you should continue doing what you do best, still be creative, try to bring beauty to this world of tragedy,” she told AFP backstage.

“There’s a lot of new meanings in this, it’s not just being a fashion designer like it used to be, I need to save my culture and my traditions.”

Kseniaschnaider’s Autumn Winter 2023 collection featured plenty of the brand’s trademark denim along with blazers and skirts made out of surplus stocks of neck ties now that Ukrainian men have swapped them for military fatigues.

“It’s really meaningful because Ukrainian men don’t need ties now because they are fighting,” she said.

The "Ukraine Fashion Week presents: FROLOV, KSENIASCHNAIDER, PASKAL" show during London Fashion Week in London

You can sit and cryJulie Paskal said all four of the designers behind the three labels had been conflicted over whether it was right to carry on with fashion

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Milan Fashion Week: Prada blooms, Emporio Armani shimmers

Florals bloomed on skirts, shoes and from the ceiling at Italian designer label Prada’s Milan Fashion Week show on Thursday (Feb 23)

Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons turned wedding dresses into everyday looks, opening their autumn/winter 2023-24 catwalk presentation with a range of long and short white skirts embellished with white flowers and paired with knits.

Utility suits became long shirt dresses with trains, while large boxy jackets were matched with slim ankle-length trousers in mainly dark shades.

Models wore shirts with stick-out shoulders, knits and jackets with colourful inside collars, and pastel-coloured cigarette trousers paired with ribbed tops.

Kitten heels in a range of colours bore cut-out floral patterns.

The collection also featured white puffer and dark asymmetrical mini skirts, colourful printed dresses, buttoned capes and duffel coats.

Last month, the Hong Kong-listed fashion group said it had appointed a new chief executive, Andrea Guerra, taking the place of Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada and easing a transition to the next generation of the founding family.

At Emporio Armani, models walked on a round catwalk to present the latest collection of veteran designer Giorgio Armani’s second line.

The 88-year-old designer, affectionately called “King Giorgio” in his native Italy, presented a sleek offering with plenty of black that was brightened with pinks, reds and purples.

Jackets had asymmetric buttons, velvet trouser suits were loose and comfy, while black and lilac evening looks shimmered with sequins.

“It is a collection under the sign of discretion even in displaying a slightly eccentric fashion,” Armani told reporters.

He will present his latest collection for his main Giorgio Armani line on Sunday.

Milan Fashion Week is the third leg of the month-long catwalk calendar, during which designers present their autumn/winter 2023-24 collections.

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